Method of making shoes



F. E. TUOTHAKER..

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 5, Iszo.

Patented Nov. 23, 1920.

'eight eide om es MARN epplieeftem mec? EPeToX-uer'y '5, wim. gefielFie.

if@ @il wwm i? may eomem:

e lmew that L lippen E. TOOTHAKEL' eezen ez the United Simues esding etSwampsee'ib, im the (county of Essex State of esechusezmts, havemveefeed zen mpmvemens in Mehede e'f Making Shoes, 61E which thefollowing deecpben, in. cenneien with 'ghe eceempenyng deep@ ings, ieSpecification, like fefel'enee'eheqe tee en de fhre'wimgs edeeamg Mie inthe sev'eml lggmee Thie imvemeie eees 1510 the memufeeime of shoes en@mme pepteulely 'man im ppm/ed mehed of making 'ftumed shoes.

En the menufeeoue @il teme@ sheeewb commen te e use @if eeumsee which.have been ppevemey mowed Subebbentiey e@ nal shape., eueh cmm'ubersbeing use@ mop only in fumed shoe@ mede with wher@ epe commonlycelledeeve heel "7 puit also in upped shoes mailed V"eee seats.

ne uppe' le sewed A before-the eaoe is eemmeen ef emes ehe upper 'te pmtenc?. shank. pe lne'veg need which eeeues me e ed@ Thi@ befe'fe the ehe@Specicecon of .'Letzes Patent.

peel being;

New, 23.,

il@ hhe lining; is wieken @efe @if es se; mefzb in ehe Hempg; paens.

The peeem invention consists el ppzeneubhod of making melded eounte'wreed shoes of the@ tyg e in w-S/"heh9 re- Speetve ef how ehe heel pezeme upper 17S attached to Hee Shoe9 the (Beumer is oceed in bhe Shoem-5er @the Shoe me been removed @om she fleet Mees? the uppe he@ beenattached Je ehe sole (eli 'ehe Way mound er@ pe; wey emued e@ es toleave the hee end. of the shee open es the cese be) the shoe turnedfighi; side eut eind, Genertel ineered and leetemd 1n proper pesi'iem.EL is ie @the meper 11oeetin' of @he eeupcee in efxfe ein?. @he

comme?, *aux* mweely, ley e shank med mM-gm of the iining? fee@ En.place and then reeeg ehe shoe Le e? n plececue the fellesbpp;0pelefgiee. :mein ehe 'insemton o the met, the @ut and nailing of 'theheel eem is depended upon $0 10eme ehe commer end esfuem permanently inpz'ope peefon. t eqmemy happens, hewevee, 'hm the eeepae ie imprepeyloeeed by ms pre eedufe either emfguleljy 01* wdehwee, and ihm, the eee?of 'he comme? ie not 'p'.i'eeeef my epgeimezb'he insidie of 'he he el?the uppeae. W'h eegeed e@ msplaeemep; ii; ehe'uld be fememb Meer. meeee'on ef lzhe eenen Hemp; ime**enes between fue eoumee elle?. Lthe heetpopten of dee ieee a. e lie im@ being usuel@ of feblenl is pmmeeyeem-eitretchebe, eine reeuf, a endl Mmes@ ef the heel eed, m'abheerpgejf Laken by ehe Hemp; end tem? iin@ me9 'the comme? is me@ feed irlshape lo ille lleel portion ol a last, and

a eprillgpressed 'loe-piece elle spring; being of sufficient strength toprees ille counter By lllns erleriing a stretching actionlong/iilldinally ol ille slloe 1n elle lnanner inelcalzeol, ille lleelend oi elle lpolln is pressed into elle counter so as lo1 locate ilproperly angnlarly, Widfllwise"andlenglzllwise oi elle elloe. lllllileJelle counter is lso lleld il is laetened to elle shoe; and thereafter`elle llorln ie removed7 and ille slloe relasled and lill ielled. inille usual or slliialole nlanner.

clearly a. parliclilar procedere 'will new loe deee1riloed,llol ellelllelllofl ae will appear in *alle course oline eleecri.pilonv is nellilniied lao ille particular procedere Wlliell llos been illllelsraled.'f

non 'lo clrawingal .A ,y i lliggnre l @lione a lnolded collnler llavinp;alzlaclled 'lo ile irliznrned lnelnlaer known to elle trade a inclrlglligg, Q, :allows a elloe Wrongl eide one o iirei lael9 elle lorepan'leaning been l and *elle lleel end laeled;

Fig: 3 snows lille ello-e righi: side olli and localed upon elleelrelelling liornfl, elle conn- 'lel' being in place and elle lleelportion oi' elle lining pulled one ol elle Way. lnillie gure 'there isaleo ellown pari ol a nailing machine which may loe need lo 'festen elleeolllllel" in' place; Y

Fig. l relaeled, and

5 is a delail perspeclive oi a portion ol elle elloe Showing nloieperli'clllarly ille ol elle elloe earried ee follows:

c r il lining; and a enilsnole eole l ce placed Wrong; eid-e elle llponi7.. lile pnllingpoifor e5 lielree ae inlllai9 elle rmly against ellelleel portion ol elle upper.

ln order lo sel loriill elle invention more.

accompanying' 'a orne 23 and lll'lell pla shows elle slloe aller'il'llas been localion olf ille nails Wlliell lasten lille eonnf' forno ol?lnoldeol connier lining;- being elle and elle lleel portion pulled downas shown in Fig'. 2. The upper and lining are 'ellen attached aroundelle -ioreparl` and pari oi elle silallll portion in any suilable manneras by e Seeed seam i9 as shown; or7 if desired, 'ille sewing may el;-lend enbirely eronnd ille eole. le illllsirated, however9 ille seamlelfminales adjacent elle lleel breast line, elle lleel portion oi'ille' appel nein@` lasied and attached lo *elle sole by laclrs 2l.instead of serving all elle "way around ille Sole or of sewing aroundelle lorepart and ellanll and Aellen leaning the lleel portion aselloern, elle lleel poreioll may be' lelie open as' described in illelielnling paient referred 'lo abova lin any evene,

--lloefevelg elle liningis elii; and turned loacll as sllown. Allierelle lelnpol'ary lasting; iaolle (not shown) llave been removed and ellesealn trimmed? lllesiloe is pulled irorgl elle llrel last and inlinedrighi side olli.

The lleel pollzion of elle lining; ie non' polled pallier-ily one el'elle elaoe 4so as lo perlnil; elle counter to loe inserted, Coni/eininsertion may loe 'accomplished lay planing elle connlner npoll lillelleel end oliI ein@1 elle elloe upon elle lerne. This iol-ln comprisesloloclr, elle lleel porlioll of' Wlliell llas ille ellape el? laat, anda loe peellion ll'lli'cll eol'leiete ol loe-piene piloted @Y lo a rod Q)wllicll ie slidallleina elle loloell bill lleld 'from angular movementily a pill 3l llelfl by elle lllocll and locatie-clin a groove 33 inelle rod. lll cornparaliveljlr still spring)j 35 "ellioll encir clesille lrollv loeers al; one end against ille blocle end al; ille oillerend againsi ille loepiece9 ii; loeing necessary lo compress ellisspring1 'lo el elle elloe upon ille form. illy subjeelinp; elle elloe.,Willi ille connlerfloose in il, lo elle expanding action of illefiorini, ille eline ie elllajec'led io a slreielling aclion, and 'ellerear. end el elle counier pressed iirnlly against 'elle inside of lillelleel portion of elle lippen elle lining 13 ai aelle llleel porlion'ille elloe olli oiB ille Way so illai e lleel end. olf elle `lorie mayeoniacl; direelly willi eonnler, Wllaielfer Siretell l ellere may loeill elle ripper being pernlllied 'lo laire place-Willman ille hindranceillal would laire piece were ille lining inierpoeecl llelnfeen ellelleel pollaion ol2 Jelle :lorie and elle opper. ll: ille saine liniecounter ie properljy'loeaied laoizll Widlllwiee end ange Wirll reepecl';'lo elle opper wllile illes@v pel enloelanlially `ille Vpoei'liollellllcll llley sllonld eeen in. ille l'lnielled one,

l propel? poelm ll lo lienSi lille nel-ll elloe., lli? elle Y fl ll e1ie open ille lleel perllorl elle upper may now loe leeied' over elleeonnler e l laclrerl in piecej and lillererifle@a ed elle ooleandleol'n. loe lillilll e l shoe like that illustrated in the drawingsor with a shoe having a sevved heel seat, in'

dle 37 a blccli 3d driver ell and a heel rest d3. ln the shoe and withthe machine illustrated, litignails el?" pass 'through the 9 anu may ormay not pass through the inturned tlangeoi the counter proper. should be.understood that neither the particular counter usednor the particularmanner olf attaching it to the yshoe Whether.4 lasting, nailing, bothlasting and nailing or otherivise is immaterial so lar as the broaderaspects ci the invention are conce-fineda llter'the counter beenproperty located and fastened to the shoe, the man 'lao ture ci the shoemay be completed in any known manner..` rlhe illustrated slice isremoved :trom the torni, the heel portion ol the lining put into placewith its lower. margin inturned and overlying the margin oit the tuck 9.A shanlr` piece l is then placed in the bottom olf the lshoe andfastened by tacks. Il socli: lining (not shown) may then be cemented orotherwise fastened on the' bottom'ol the inside of the shoe, such sochlso after Which the second last 4f? is inserted and the shoe beaten out.At this time, depending upon how the counter Was attached to the shoeWhile on the form 23, the heel seat may or may not be nailed. With ythey illustrative shoe no such nailing is necessary since the nails 43?suliice. Thereafter theheel is attached and the usual finishing op'-erations performed.

Although several variations ol possible procedure have been indicatedabove, it is to be noted that each 'of them comprises as a step betweenthe insertion of the first last and the insertion of the second last,the placing of the shoe with the molded counter loose in it upon anexpansible form whichv locates the counter properly and thefastening ofthe counter` to the shoe While itl 1s held in proper location.

Having' thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States-is: n

l. A Amethod. of making turned: shoes which. comprises assembling thevshoeupon a last,vsubsequently removing this last and inserting a secondlast, and, between the steps of removingl the shoe from the first lastand inserting the second last, placing the shoe i-vithv molded counterloose therein upon an eizpansihle form and While it is thereon, tast ngnthe counter to the shoe.

il. l or i ng turned shoes A :mi :l

'which comprises assembling the shoe upon a last, subsequently removingthis last and inserting a second last, and, hetvveen the steps oir'removing the shoe Jfrom the First last and inserting the second last,placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon an enpansibleform and While it is thereon, nailing the counter to the shoe.

8. A method ot' making' turned shoes which comprises assembling the shoeupon a last, subsequently removing this last and inserting a secondlast, and, between the steps ol removing the shoe 'from the first vlastand inserting the second last, placing the shoe with a molded counterloose therein vupon an' enpansible :torni and While it is thereon,nailing the countei1 to the sole ol the shoe..

a method oft making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembledupper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, attaching theupper and lining to sole, removing the shoe from the last and turning itright side out,placing the shoewith a molded counter loose therein upona longitudinally expanding term With the heel end of the form in contactvvith the 'counter in such manner as to locate the counter properly inthe shoe and hold itin proper location, lastening the counter tothe'shoe and subsequently7 inserting a second last and finishing theshoe 5. A method of making turned shoes vvhich'comprises placing anassembled up-- the heel end of the form in contact .With the counter insuch manner as 'tolocate the counter properly in the shoe and hold it inproper location, nailing the counter to vthe` sole and subsequentlyinsertingv a second last and finishing the shoe.

G. A, method of making turned shoes yupon a longitudinally expandingform With,

which comprises lplacing' an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrongside out 'upon a last; slitting and turning hach the rear portion of thelining, attaching the upper and lining to athe sole least around 4theforepart and linto/the shanlt, removing the shoe from the last andturning vit right side out, p acing4 the shoe with" a molded counterloose therein upon a stretching :torni With -the heel end of the formi'n Acontact with the counter whereby the counter is properly locatedand held in the shoe, tastening the counter to the shoe While so heldand subsequently inserting a second last and 'finishing the shoe.

l'. A method of maliing turned shoes which comprises placing an,assembled upout is properly located and held in the shoe,

nailing the counter Ato the shoe While soheld and subsequently insertinga second last and nnishing the shoe.

8. El method ot making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembledupper and lining and a sole Wrong side out A upon. a last, slitting andturning bach the rear portion oi" the lining,'attaching the upper andlining to the sole at least around the itorepart and into the shank,removing the shoe from the last and turning it right side out, placingthe shoe with a molded counter` loose thereinV upon a stretching tornawith the heel end ot the term in contact with the counted wherebgt7 thecounter is properly located and held in the shoe, nailing the counter tothe sole While so held and subsequenly inserting a second last andfinishing the shoe. p

9. lit method of malring turned shoes Which comprises placing anassembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last,slitting the lining at the sides oit the shoe, attaching the upper andlining to the sole., pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out,pulling the heel portion olf the lining partly out ot the shoe, placingthe shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon a two-part `torm theheel and toe portions ot which are movable apart to torce the counterand shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them, ltasteningthe counter to the shoe while the counter and shoe are so held andsubsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.

l0. Il method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placinganassemhled upper and lining and a sole wrong side out upon a last,slitting the lining at the sides ot* the shoe, attaching the upper andlining to thesole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out,pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly out oi the shoe, placingthe shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon a twopart form theheel and toe portions ot which are movable apart to torce the counterand shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them., nailingthe counter to the snoe While the counter and shoe are so held andsubsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.

ll. A. method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placinganassembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last,slitting the lining at the sides ot the shoe, attaching the upper andlining to the sole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out,pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly outlet the shoe, placingthe shoe With a molded counter loose therein upon a two-part torni, theheel and toe portions ot which areI movable apart to force the counterand shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them, nailing thecounter to the sole While the counter and shoe are so held andsubsequently inserting a secon last and completing the shoe.

l2. t method or" making turned Yshoes which comprises placing anassembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong-side out upon a last,slitting and turning baclr the margin ot the rear portion ot the lining,attaching the upper and lining to the sole, the upper all the Way aroundthe sole and the lining part wayY around, removing the shoe trom thelast, turning the shoe, placing a 'molded counter upon a :to-rmcomprising a heel portion shaped substantially like the heel portion oita last and a toe portion in the torni eta spring-pressed toe piece,placing the shoe on the term in such manner that the inside ot the heelportion ot the upper is in contact with the counter, the spring servingto hold the counter rirmly against the upper and to locate the counterand shoe in proper relative position, nailing the molded coun ter to thesole and suhseduently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.

l. l method ot melting turned 'shoes which comprises placing anassembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last,slitting and turning baclr the margin 4ot the rear portion the lining,attaching the upper and llining to the sole, the upper all 4the Wayaround the sole and the lining part Way around, removing the shoe trom`the last, turning the shoe. placing an assem-v bled molded counter andtuclr upon a torm comprising a heel portion shaped substantially lilrethe heel portion. ot' a last and a toe portion in the form oi aspring-pressed toe piece, placing the shoe on the 'form in such mannerthat the inside ot the heel portion ol the upper is in contact with thecounter, the spring serving to hold the counter firmly against the upperand to locate the counter llil and shoe in proper relative position,nailing the counter and tuclr to the sole and subsequently inserting asecond last and completing the shoe.

ln testimony Whereo1 l have signed Amy name to this specification.

